Shoe



L. c. KENTON.

SHOE.

. APPLICATION FILED DEC. 9, I920- 1,407,661 Patented Feb. 21, 1922.

- 2 SHEETS-SHEET I.

B y W ATTORNEYS Q- I L. C. KENTON.

SHOE.

I APPLICATION FILED DEC-9, I920- 1,407 ,6 61, Patented Feb. 21, 1922.

2 SHEET$SHEET 2.

l mum/r01? WITNESSES m g 7 BY fi k ATTORNEYS rarest LEVI C. KENTON, 0F GHATTANOOGA, TENNESSEE.

snon'.

To (ZZZ 107mm it may concern:

Be'it known that I, Lnvi C. KENTON, a

citizenof theUnitedStates, and a resident or Chattanooga, in the county of Hamilton and State of Tennessee, have invented a new and Improved Shoe, of which the following is'ja full, clear,and exact description.

Th'is invention has special reference to improvements in shoesandiinore particularly to those adapted for childrens use, although it is herev explained that shoes made in accordance with my invention may be made in various sizes as shall be found desirable and necessary without in any way departing from the spirit of the invention.

"More particularly, the invention relates toimprovements Vin shoes of the blucher type and style having a double-tip and vamp portion to provide a smooth interior surface such as to obviate the necessity of providing a lining for the shoe and particularly at f the forward part, so that the lining may only be disposed in the top or quarter part of the shoe and thus have all the appearances of a (hill or cotton lined shoe. Y I

it still further and more important object of the'invention is to improveshoes of the blucher type set forth in which instead of constructing the shoes of three or more pieces of leather and connecting the front edges of the quarters or top to the rear edges of the vamp by afseam extending between the shank and instep, said parts are formed from two pieces with an additional vamp and toe section th'ereover, cut in a novel manner to form the lacing flaps and to facilitate the securing, of a tongue of novel shape in position by a continuous row of stitching connecting the top part of the double vamp and tip forming the lower part of the shoe to the under part on either side and over the throat portion of the vamp in such a manner as to additionally secure the tongue in posit-ion so that the strength of the shoe at this point is equal to the strength of the leatheror material from which the shoe is constructed rather than simply being strong as the stitches in the usual manner of securing a tongue in' position.

' A still further objectof theinvention in ja'cent to the vamp in such a manner as to' provide'asmooth interior surface at this .cured.

Specification of Letters Patent. Patt -grafted Fqgb, 21, 1922, 7 Application filed December 9, 1920. Serial no. 429,527.

cancy for receiving the tongue and thus reinforcing the flaps at their point of attachment in such a manner as to prevent the flaps from ripping open or tearing apart'from the vamp and other parts to which they, are se- With-the above and other objects in view,

the 'invention resides in the peculiar com- .bination and arrangement of parts to be hereinafter more fully described, illustrated and claimed.

Reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings forming a part of this specification, in' which similar characters of referenceindicate corresponding parts in all the views, and in which Figure l is a plan view of a blank forming one of the sides of the shoe;

Figure 2 is a plan view showing the sides over-seamed down the front and a tongue secured in cut-out portions of the sides;

Figure 3 is a plan view of a combined toe and vamp section forming the front portion of the shoe;

Figure a is a plan view of an improved tongue forming part of the shoe;

V Figure 5 is an under side view similar to Figure 2- to more particularly illustrate the manner ofsecuring the tongue in position;

Figure 6 is a view similar to Figure 2 but showing one of the lacing flaps turned back a to illustratethe manner in which the combined toe and vamp section is secured in position; i

Figure 7 is a fragmentary under side view showing the manner of securing the tongue to the sides and combination toe and vamp section, the'tongue being broken away at one side to show the manner in which it is accommodated by a vacancy formed by cutout portions of the sides;

Figure '8 is a sectional perspective view of a portion of the complete shoe, the sec tion being taken transversely of the vamp or combination toe and vamp section adjacent to the lacing flaps;

Figure 9 is a sectional view taken on the line 9-9 of Figure 5. 1

As shown in the drawings, the improved shoe'embodies a pair of sideslO, the same, in contra-distinction to the usual quarters or top sections of blucher shoes which have front edges connected to the rear edges of the vamp by a seam extending between the shank and instep, forming the quarters or tops 11 and extending beyond the shank 12 to provide toe and vamp sections 13 with- These straight edges 14 down the front. straight edges are stitched together or overseamed as shown at 15, as are the back edge positions 16, the seams being exposed but the edges of the co-acting parts being but- ,ted or brought together edge to edge s as to provide smooth seams interiorly and exteriorly. The sides in rear of the vamp portion are severed inwardly at right angles, as shown at 17, then longitudinally as shown at 18 and outwardly for a short distance as shown at 19, the angular severed portions producing outward extensions 20 at the lower ends of the lacing flaps 21 for a purpose to be hereinafter more clearly made apparent. The edge of the flap adjacent to the inward line of separation or severed portion 17 is preferably rounded as shown at 22 to facilitate the sewing operation as will be hereinafter explained, and to obviate sharp,

projections likely to catch in objects and tend to tear the flap portions of the sides of the shoe.

It will be observed that by securing the sides together as described and severing the same to producethe extensions of the lacing flaps, the CO-ttCfJI1Q, severed portions produce an intermediate space or vacancy 23 which is left uncovered by such extensions when the latter are turned upwardly and reinforced by facing strips 24L which are secured to the inner face thereof or along the edges of the side forming such flaps, for

the attachment of the'shoe eyelets and lacing studs. Besides the parts 20 being turned outward to leave the space or vacancy 23 communicating with the opposite'sides, such parts or extensions produce a shoe of the blucher style. The tongue 25 which may be made in the bellows form or any other de sired form or shape is in the present instance employed to fill the space or vacancy 23 so as to provide a smooth interior surface,

' strengthen the shoe'at this ooint and avoid the disadvantage of added thickness likely to hurt or injure the foot, as in the ordinary blucher styles of shoes, and'for this purpose the tongue is provided at its small or lower end where attached to the vamp with side extensions 26 producing a part or enlarge- 7 ment which conforms to the shape of the vacancy or space 23 in which it is fitted by I butting the forward and side edges together and stitching or overseaming said parts, as shown: at 27. The extensions 26 are severed from the tongue proper for portions of their lengths, as shown at 28, so. as to leave'the tongue free as faras the intermediate tongue or stub 29 of a vamp section 30. This vamp has sideextensions or over- 7 lapsBl which are stitched to the sides 10 in the manner in whichordinary vampsare secured to the uppers onguarters, asshown at 32, except that in the present instance the vamp is fitted over the front portions of said sides and due to'the incisionsor cuts 19,

the extensions 20 can be bent backward be- 7 yond the rearwardly extending endsof 0verlaps 31 so to permit'the vamp or upper part of the shoe front to be sewed to the sides at the shank portion by a continuous row of stitching or seam'32 passing over one side, over the filled vacancy upward along'the curved throat portion ofthe vamp forming the intermediate tongue or stub portion29 and then over the other side of the vamp, this stitching simultaneously passing through the extensions 26'substantially centrally and V longitu'dinally'of the latter, as shown at 83,

across the crotch portions of the cuts or severed portions 28 and through the tongue atthe edge ofthe, curved-throatportion orstub 29. In this manner the tongue isdoubly secured in position in addition to providing a smooth interior surface by butting" the front and side edges together as described, while the rear edges of the extensions 26 are beveled,

as shown at 34, to overlie the inner portions 7 The edges of the extensions 20 at the 1 severed portions 18 aresecuredto the vamp on the outside in interlocking relation to the latter by rows of stitching additional to the rows of stitching 32, as shown at 36, the

edges of the facing strips 24" being beveled,

as shown at 37, and simultaneously stitched to the vamp 30 to add further reinforcement wlthout unnecessarily increasing the thickness of the parts at these points. The front I portions: of the sides 10 beneath'the vamp section 20 may be split or skived thin or light as desired in any shoe of this vdesign so asto obviate unnecessary thickness at the vamp and toe without-weakening the shoe. 7

N ovelty is claimed fort-he manner of cuttingthe sides 10 for producing the blucher style of shoe by turning the parts 20 outward and permitting the vamp to be sewed inposition by rows of stitching forming a continuous seam in such a manner 'as to strengthen the shoe at the lacing flaps and to obviate separate stitching of the vamp to the sides or quartersand of thetongue to the curved throat portion of the vamp form-V ing the intermediate tongue or stub 29. The methods of attaching the lacing flaps to the here'explained that in lasting the shoe the shoe the uppers are seamed down the back and reinforced in the usual manner as now commonly done, then 1f desired the tip of the shoe over the vamp 30 may .be provided with a decorative .too or simply stitched to indicate. an ordinary ornamental tip. In addition, the shoe may be lined in the top or quarter part thereof and thus have'all the appearance of a drill or cotton lined shoe and avoid wrinkles and loose lining in the fore part of the shoe, although it is preferably, due to the smooth interior surface provided by the construction set forth,that the shoe be not lined. Furthermore, by constructing a shoe as specified the strain of the lasting is taken off of the vamp seam} and reinforcement is particularly effected at these points due to the manner of securing the-tongue in position and the particular way of forming the blucher style of shoe by the extensions at the lower part of the lacing flaps and the method of attachment of these flaps through the rearward extensions of the vamp.

1. A shoe of the blucher type, comprising side portions having extensions stamped therefrom to provide recesses, said sides being secured together to bring said recesses into alignment, a tongue having one end fitted. in the aligned recesses and secured to the sides, and a vamp fitted over the front portions of the sides and having the extensions secured over the same.

2. A shoe of the class described, having an upper provided with ends projecting forward to the toe and having angular incisions in its inner edges producing lacing flaps with outwartly extending forward portions, and a toe vamp extending to the sole about the entire part of the shoe forward of the shank thereof, covering said entire portion of the upper and having side extensions to which said outwardly extending portions are secured, said vamp being secured to the forwardly projecting ends of the upper by a continuous line of stitching, and a tongue secured to the vamp and upper.

3. A shoe of the class described, having an upper provided with ends projecting forward to the toe and having angular incisions in its inner edges producing lacing flaps with outwardly extending forward portions,

a toe vamp extending to the sole about the entire part of the shoe forward of the shank thereof covering said entire portion of the upper and having side extensions to which said outwardly extending portions are secured, said vamp being secured to the forwardly project-ing ends of the upper by a continuous line of stitching, said angular cut-out portions of the upper producing a vacancy centrally thereof, and a tongue having lateral extensions at its lower end to fit said vacancy, said tongue, vamp and upper being secured together.

at. A shoe comprising a pair of side portions forming the quarters and extending forward to the toe of the shoe over-seamed along their forward and rear edges with their ends 'butted together, said sides having severed port-ions produced by a cut extending inwardly, upwardly and then outwardly, producing movable extensions, vamp sections secured over the forward portions of said sides and at the shank thereof and having an intermediate stub, said extensions interlocking with respect-to the vamp through the instrumentality of said outwardly severed portions and stitched thereto to provide lacing flaps, and a tongue separate from the vamp and secured to the stub thereof.

5. A shoe comprising a pair of side portions forming the quarters and extending forward to the toe of the shoe over-seamed along their forward and rear edges with their ends butted together, said sides having severed portions produced by a cut extending inwardly, upwardly and then outwardly, producing movable extensions, vamp se tions secured over'the forward portions of said sides and at the shank thereof and having an intermediate stub, said extensions interlocking with respect to the vamp through the instrumentality of said outwardly severed portions and stitched thereto to provide lacing flaps, said severed portions producing opposite recesses in alignment when the extensions are bent out wardly and secured to the shank portions of the vamp, lining strips secured to the inner faces of the lacing flaps and having outer extensions secured to the vamp by a single means, and a tongue secured to the forward portions of the sides and to said vamp. I

6. A shoe comprising a pair of side portions forming the quarters and extending forward to the toe of the shoe over-seamed along their forward and rear edges with their ends butted together, said sides having severed portions produced by a cut extending inwardly, upwardly and then outwardly, producing movable extensions, vamp sections secured over the forward portions of said sides and at the shank thereof and having an intermediate stub, said extensions interlocking with respect to the vamp through the instrumentality of said outwardly severed portions and stitched thereto to provide lacing flaps, the co-acting spaces produced by thevsevered portions forming the extensions of the lacing flaps opening between the flaps and underlying a portion of the vamp, and a tongue having lateral extensions providing an enlargement fitted in said vacancy and over-seamed to the sides, said lateral extensions being severed beyond the vamp and the vamp being secured to the sides at the shank portions and throat to simultaneously connect the tongue and extensions thereof to the vamp, and the "amp and'side portions to each other. 3

7. A shoe of the blucher style, including separate side port-ions forming the uppers and extending forwardly to the toe, said side portions being secured together down the front and at their back edges to provide smooth joints, said side portions being severed at their inner edges to provide extensions having their inner ends free to'be bent outwardly, a vamp secured to the shank portions of the sides beyond saidextensions when the latter are so bent, and a tongue to which said vamp and shank portions are attached by a single means.

8. A shoe of the blucher style, including separate side portions forming the uppers and extending forwardly to the toe, said side portions being secured together down the front and at their back edges to provide smooth joints, said side portions being shank portions ofthe sides beyond said extensions when the latter are-so bent, the opposed edges of the. sides. ad acent said severed portions having co-actmg recesses,

said vamp having a curved throatportion and, adjacent rearward extensions partly overlying the vacancy produced by said severed portions, a-Ltongue having partly severed side extensions and fitted within said vacancy with the forward and side edges butting and over-seamed thereto, the rear edges being beveled and a continuous row of stitchingconnecting the shank portions of the back tothe shank portions of the sides, connecting the vamp and extensions of the tongue and also the tongue to the curved portion ofthe vamp, said stitching intercepting the crotched portions oithe cuts separating the lateral extensions from the tongue and the extensions of the flaps being secured to the vamp section and lateral extensions independently of the first named stitching.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this'specificationinthe presence of two subscribing witnesses.

MARC MIPENNEBAKER,

PAUL R. Nor. 

